Inner Sydney Landscapes : Design, Garden Builder and Programed Maintenance
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Inner West Landscaping Sydney | Courtyard Garden Builders
The Inner West is not an empty block. Yards are small, already built against the house, and constrained by what sits on every side: a rear lane that will take a barrow and little else, winter shade from a two-storey neighbour, reactive clay under failed concrete, and heritage brick that is to remain.
DC designs, constructs and maintains courtyard gardens for those conditions. The work is measured, built and planted to the lot that exists — not to an acreage template brought in from the edge of the city.
We work through design, council documentation where it is required, construction and ongoing care so the courtyard remains usable after the scaffolding comes down.
Plant Installation and Nursery Sydney
That’s this job. We source the plants, prep the beds, plant them, mulch, water them in.
Most people don’t search “supply and install plants.” They want to walk out the back and the courtyard looks like it belongs to the house — not a tray of supermarket herbs in raw clay.
That’s this job. We source the plants, prep the beds, plant them, mulch, water them in. The guesswork and the labour sit with us.
Planting looks simple. It isn’t. Sydney isn’t one climate and the Inner West isn’t one garden. The list has to match the dirt, the light and what the yard actually has to do.
Marrickville and Newtown sit on heavy clay. Water ponds after rain, then the ground sets like a brick. Plant into that raw and the roots drown or they never leave the pot. We break it up, put organics through it, get fall off the house, then the plant goes in.
Balmain and Rozelle are a different dirt. Shallower, often over sandstone, wind off the water, salt in the air. A hedge that loves wet clay in Petersham can sulk on a peninsula courtyard. Coastal-tough plants and decent mix in the hole matter more than a pretty label.
Shade is the third brief. Two-storey terraces steal winter sun. A south wall is not a north bed. Screening along a fence gets more light than the floor under the neighbour’s eaves. We don’t put a sun grevillea in a well and hope. The list follows the light on that block — clivia and lomandra in the dim bit, the flowering stuff where it actually gets hit.
The work runs in a fixed order: the site, then the soil, then the plant, then the pit, then water, then mulch.
Plant Installation Method
Sydney
The Site
The first visit is the measure. Levels, fall, services, winter shade, exposure, what stays, what comes out.
Plant list and planting plan
That measure becomes a scaled planting plan and a plant list — species, pot size, number, position. The first issue is for review. You mark what you want changed. We revise it.
Once the plant list and planting plan are agreed, that is the document we plant from. Substitutions only if the nursery cannot supply the plant or the size, and only with your say-so. The quote follows the signed list.
The Soil
Beds are cleared of weeds, roots, rubble and stone. The existing ground is cultivated. Where clay sits tight and wet, the planting position is taken down through the pan and filled with a mix the plant can actually root into, firmed so it does not slump later.
Garden beds finish with about 300mm of growing medium; lawn with about 100mm. Gypsum and organics go through the heavy clays. Finished levels fall away from the house. We do not plant into a puddle.
The Stock
Plants are established, clean, and the right form for the species. Roots are open — not wound around the pot. Stock is hardened off before it arrives. Sizes on the list are the smallest we will put in. Poor plants stay at the nursery.
The Pit
The hole is twice the width of the root ball and no deeper. Compacted ground at the base is loosened. The top of the root ball sits level with the finished soil. Circling roots are teased or cut. Backfill goes in by layers and is firmed around the ball, not onto it.
The Fertiliser
Slow-release in the backfill, at the rate on the bag. Low phosphorus for natives. Not against the stem.
Water and mulch
Each plant is watered through the root ball the day it goes in. Mulch sits 75–100mm deep across the bed and stops short of the stems — about 100mm clear. If irrigation is part of the job, it is running before we leave.
After
Water is deep, then less often. Plants that fail after a proper install are replaced with the same thing. The bed should read as the plan intended once it has taken.
Light the courtyard. Use it after dark.
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Garden Planting Suggestions
SCREENING AND HEDGES
Tight side yards and fence lines. Narrow forms first.
SHADE COURTYARDS
South walls, two-storey neighbours, under a deck edge.
SUN, CLAY, LOW FUSS
North and west beds that bake, Marrickville clay.
Plant List - What Actually Put In
AUSTRALIAN NATIVES WORTH USING
Council-friendly, local character, not a themed “bush garden” unless you ask for one.
Plant supply on this side of Sydney is a matter of matching stock to clay, salt, shallow profiles and building shade. The sequence is consistent: a site visit, a planting list for agreement, then order, inspection and installation.
Inner West, Eastern Suburbs and Upper North Shore Landscape Design, Garden Builder and Programed Maintenance
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